Fall Fashion 2018
a preview, part one
text by Fiona Clarke
In anticipation of cooler days ahead, we turn to the high priestess of fashion, Vogue’s Anna Wintour, to lead us through the maze of Fall 2018 Paris Fashion Week.
Change was in the air at Paris Fashion Week. In the past, only one or two women designers showed on the runways. “Along with creative directors Stella McCartney and Sarah Burton, Chloé’s Natasha Ramsay-Levi, Givenchy’s Claire Waight Keller and Dior’s Maria Grazia Chiuri, [illustrate that] women are no longer a token,” says Wintour, “but have become a force in high fashion.”
This season, ease, subtleness and wearability take centerstage. Design houses such as Chloç, Celine and Loewe are fine examples. “What it means to be a woman in today’s fashion world translated to softness, femininity and romanticism,” notes Wintour.
“In many ways, this season seemed to be one less about the actuality of a garment and more about the person inside it,” explains Wintour. If you need to feel safe, wear a shaggy faux fur from Givenchy or some reflective gear in radioactive colors from Miuccia Prada. Are you trying to stay optimistic? Perhaps colorful patchwork knee-high boots from Dior or a shimmery, jingly dress from Paco Rabanne will do the trick.
“What is great about fashion today is that it’s not just about one thing, there’s a lot of individuality,” Wintour shares. “Saint Laurent and Balmain show strong, powerful women confidently striding down the runway in stilettos and short skirts.”
A sign of the times, activists are speaking up. Acknowledging the changing world, “Karl Lagerfeld’s Leave Me Alone Collection for Chanel was no doubt in response to the Me Too Movement,” claims Wintour.
“Most important, in every country we’ve seen a great response to diversity,” says Wintour. “The few that have not heard that call seriously look out-of-touch…what’s happening in the world today is about inclusivity. It was wonderful going into these collections being so aware of the political and feminist climate and a call-for-action all over the world and see how brilliantly the designers have responded.”