TRENDS THAT RULED
THE SPRING RUNWAYS
by Fiona Clarke

The long parade of more than 100 fashion shows during the spring 2020 season, which took place several months ago, has finally come to market. The first order of business is discerning the most impactful trends of the season—from a twist on the classic suit and graphic polka dots to a look at decades past with disco collars and bold neons. See which designers led the pack for each new mode before you give your wardrobe a refresh. Welcome to what’s now.

Above top: left to right; Courrèges and Jacquemus. Bottom: left to right; Roksanda and Marni.

GET NOTICED IN NEON

What’s fluorescent pink, orange, blue, green, and yellow, and refuses to blend in with the crowd? All the highlighter-inspired neons gracing your favorite catwalks, from Roksanda and Marni, to Courrèges and Jacquemus. Subtle may not be her specialty, but these vibrant shades pair wonderfully with black, white, navy or tan, and know how to make an entrance.

Above: left to right; Altuzarra, Chloé and Givenchy.

BUSINESS IN BERMUDAS

If the thought of hot pants makes you want to run and hide, Bermuda shorts are here to save the day. Putting a twist on the classic suit, designers from Givenchy to Chloé to Altuzarra embraced the Bermuda short suit for spring. Part nine-to-five, part California cool, meet the next wave of the bike short trend.

Above top: left to right; Celine and Etro. Bottom: left to right; Marc Jacobs and Louis Vuitton.

WELL-VESTED

While the term “borrowed from the boys” is so passé in 2020, there is something decidedly last midcentury Savile Row about the vest. Whether included as part of a three-piece suit at Etro or a two-piece at Marc Jacobs, mismatched with a jacket at Louis Vuitton or a pin-striped number paired with jeans at Celine, there’s something quite dapper and appealing—not to mention endlessly flattering—about the almighty waistcoat.

Above: left to right; Dries Van Noten, Altuzarra and Carolina Herrera.

CONNECT THE DOTS

Designers are digging in their luxury heels when it comes to the almighty dot—simply put, the trend shows no sign of slowing. The innovative duo that is Dries Van Noten and Christian Lacroix found a place for the polka dot on a maxi coat while Altuzarra embraced a patchwork of enchanting dot-patterned prints and Wes Gordon at Carolina Herrera went fitted and sheer for one of his takes on dots.

Above top: left to right; Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen. Bottom: left to right;  Giambattista Valli and Oscar de la Renta. 

IN TIERS

Last season found us in a sea of flowing fabrics, an indication that gala gowns were ready to hit the circuit beyond your basic black-tie affair. Expanding on that idea for spring 2020 are lovely and light tiered dresses that manage to offer volume, high drama and maximum twirl-ability. Dries Van Noten fashioned the idea in black and red, while Giambattista Valli chose  pale apricot. Oscar de la Renta went ballerina with black layers of tulle and Alexandra McQueen chose a classic white dress cinched with a wide, black leather belt.

Above: left to right; Victoria Beckham, JW Anderson and Lanvin.

DISCO FEVER

And just like that, disco’s not dead. The wide collar favored by the Studio 54 set made a surprise comeback on the spring 2020 runways. Modernized on coats, jackets and blouses at Lanvin, Victoria Beckham, JW Anderson and beyond, the look is often shown with contrasting colors to make it really stand out. Because what’s the point of a super collar if you can’t really see it?